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Holsclaw Boat Trailer Serial Number
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Flowjo cracked version of idm ford 289 engine serial number location cartier watch serial number check crack screen on ipod touch how to pan in flash cs6 crack tuneup download free crack idm free idm crack 2015 gmc. Oct 13, 2012 I've only determined that it is a Holsclaw by the design, the shock absorbers with coil springs on the axle. I have no idea where to even locate the VIN. It could've been painted over, for all I know. Next to the tongue there is an aluminum plate with some stampings on it. Unfortunately this plate has been painted over, so I have.
Holsclaw Boat Trailer Models
I've never read the Glen-L book on building wood-frame trailers, and am not too sure how the DMV would like that, but am willing to consider all or partial wood frame elements. I understand that commercial trailers exist with all or most of these elements, but prices are usually well over $1200 for the Trailex aluminum models with spare tire, winch stand and winch. It wouldn't be remotely strong enough to handle the weight and forces of trailering unless it was massively thick! My Aeroflow trailer has torsion suspension, and is scary to tow empty as it will do repeated 3' vertical hops on bad freeway sections. Remember, once you get the trailer license and title you can modify or upgrade it virtually anyway you want with no hassle from the authorities.Their suspension is rated for around 1000lbs (the Feds made them drop the rating from 1350lbs after multiple failures and accidents), and is WAY too stiff for a lightweight wooden boat.
I trailer a lot of miles annually, which is another reason why I spec'd commercial axles, bearings and wheels.
BBSebens01-14-2011, 11:41 PMSuspension is the biggest problem in the small wooden boat trailer world.
I realize this really doesn't fit Thorne's design brief but is one of the few options for our light (and often precious!) boats. When I salvaged an extremely rusty Holsclaw trailer I was struck by the higher part count, the higher number of operations going into build each part, the higher number of connections and assembly operations, the higher position in which the boat had to be carried, all for the potentially higher amplitude of load motion. I'd guess that we might start seeing some pretty small used jet ski trailers on the market which might fill the bill with minimum mods.
Holsclaw Boat Trailer Serial Number
Nicholas Scheuer01-15-2011, 11:49 AMIf you go with one of the kit trailers like Dave and Keith suggest, I'd strongly urge a $30 investment in a swivel-wheel tongue jack. It seems to me to be a problem mainly of finding springs that are not too stiff for a light boat. Again, this trailer design question isn't for my immediate needs -- I have two that should work OK for my boats.
But when the road ran up onto the top of the levee along the Sacramento River, the wind was blowing across the river with gusts over 70mph, and the boat and trailer were blown up onto one wheel at around 30 degrees -- the maximum that the towball would allow.
Ben Fuller01-20-2011, 12:19 PMYou can download articles from Wooden Boat for very little money, dimes I think, so it would be easy to get a copy of the full article if you have no archive. Thorne01-25-2011, 08:44 AMJohn L - the Holsclaw is a wonderful trailer, so if you can get yours fixed up it will be well worth the money. Juniper - While the PWC trailers might be OK for adding a longer tongue for heavier wooden boats, I don't see any rated for less than 1200 lbs, and many higher -- which probably indicates the use of 2000lb leaf springs.
One of my brothers mentioned putting steel heavy steel bars on my trailer to bring the load closer to the rating.
Canoeyawl01-26-2011, 10:27 AMThere is a problem of using excessive padding or cushioning between the trailer and the boat. Dave Wright01-26-2011, 11:53 AMThorne, you sure seem impressed with the old Holsclaw trailers. For my purposes the King y frame trailer rated at 700 lbs (I assume gross) would be an attractive option. So there is probably a lot we aren't taking into consideration here, from the perspective of actual forces acting on the wooden boat hull.
I remember once crossing a set of railroad tracks, pulling a Hobie 14 (250 lbs) on the standard-issue, leaf spring trailer. The strap (about 4' long) spans a gap in the trailer bracket and the axle is attached to the strap.
Its not a lot of weight, maybe 100lbs I think, Steel or lead bolted to the frame of the trailer. It would be nice to have a very lightweight trailer for a very lightweight (say 350 pound) boat, but stock hardware tends to be heavy. Seems to me the only way to get this may be to load any old trailer down to capacity with weights and then put the boat on it.
With full length support and nice long padded bunks that are just set to stabilize but not take significant weight you can cinch the boat down pretty hard so that even if the trailer bounces, the boat goes with it without bouncing on the trailer. I seem to recall he uses a fairly light weight flat bed trailer and props the boat up with fenders. If the trailer had rollers down the middle a carpeted 2 x 4 fits neatly in those welded on brackets. I imagine the trailer frame weighs a couple of hundred pounds, lumber platform and ballast weights about 250, boat weight 200 max. As for something like the Yakima trailer, that would be great if we could source the parts separately. We see a couple of those gorgeous light aluminum trailers with motorcycle wheels every year at the big canoe shows, but a couple grand for a little trailer is far more than I'd ever spend on one.
That is not to say that HF trailers don't have their place, and I see a lot of them in use by boaters who do under 1000 miles of trailering a year.
So I'd be really wary of trying to invent something completely new for boat trailer suspension - again, I want to be responsible and protect my boat and other motorists. And my EZLoader galvanized trailer may be rated for 1000lbs, but it seems to handle my 350lb dory skiff without bouncing too badly on everything but very bumpy roads. If'n I wanted a trailer like you want, Thorne, I'd just start collecting bits and make one.
An interesting design, but I'd modify it to take a commercial boat trailer axle and the lightest leafsprings possible. I suspect that this would not have happened had I been towing my dory skiff (350lbs or so) on the galvanized EZLoader trailer (200lbs or so).
Dave W - we'd probably all like that, as the Trailex trailers seem to be the only commercial ones easily available with a suspension rated at less than 1000lbs.
Thorne01-26-2011, 10:14 AMThat is a possible solution, but certainly not optimal as you may reach a point in an emergency stop or turn where the additional weight (no matter how low on the trailer frame) could cause serious problems.
Commonly trailer trailer bunks are secured with one bolt forward and one bolt aft, and that is where additional cushioning coud easily be provided, especially for a light load. Eric Hvalsoe02-06-2011, 10:35 AMIf I do disassemble the trailer I imagine taking one of the original leaf springs down to Craigs and have the old man tell me what he thinks of it - how he might rate it. Whenever the padding absorbs a shock, the boat is loose on the trailer and will likely shift. A light duty trailer is going to be light weight and potentially unstable in cross winds, and a heavy(er) trailer is going to be too stiff for our little boats. Then I cinch the boat down pretty hard; becoming one with the trailer and no point loading is the goal.
To control point loading aft, I get the boat on the trailer then bring the roller up so it just kisses the keel. Cushioning the boat on an overly stiff trailer certainly might be a good idea, but it's treating the symptoms of the problem, not addressing the cause.
I'm very happy with my current galvanized Road Runner trailer made in BC Canada and very similar to EZ Loader but less money.
Canoeyawl01-15-2011, 09:48 PMMore than once I have bought an old 'glass skiff on a trailer for a couple hundred bucks. I wanted to raise another issue at this point, which is that boat trailers can be too lightweight for some trailering conditions. Todd Bradshaw01-25-2011, 10:46 PMThe problem with that is that it doesn't solve the bouncing on bumps, constant rattle and clang and jerking on your bumper that comes with towing an underloaded trailer. For something like a boat trailer that may be moved empty, and in most cases when loaded with small wooden boats doesn't come within 50% of the weight limit of the torsion axle, it could be disastrous -- which is why you don't see any of the commercial boat trailers with those axles. The overly spendy thule (rack and roll) trailer uses coilover shocks and a super simple trailing arm with no axle connecting the sides. But I notice that the King trailers that I linked to back a ways all seem to have torsion axles.
There are a lot of triangles in that trailer, and some of them might be acting as torsion springs as well. However, the whole thing is so light that it flies around as a single, light unit and there's no mass to strain the boat. One possibility for an ultralight trailer would be to find a couple identical mountainbike frames with full suspension, get some schedule 40 alu pipe, and do some welding. It seems that we are coming to a point: Every trailer is a compromise, much the same as the boats themselves. Rich Jones02-08-2011, 03:33 PMSomeone mentioned that Trailex recommends lower tire pressure.
Seems to me any commercial trailer, or trailer parts that you buy or build up, are going in be in the 1000 pound load category or heavier. Ben Fuller01-27-2011, 09:11 AMWhat I don't like about the trailex trailers is that it is hard to build in padded full length keel support.
First and foremost remember that the trailer suspension, as pointed out earlier, supports both the weight of the boat AND trailer -- so if you can get the dealer to give you the overall weight of the trailer you can add that to the weight of the boat to see how much load you place on the suspension. Or, you might reflect further on how a modified bunk system or other support system can provide further cushioning on a standard trailer - without being specific and without actually doing the design, I have to think that the two big springs and three shock absorbers on the old Holsclaw trailer might switch on some mental light bulbs for a not too complex bunk suspension arrangement. The dolly system has an additional benefit besides the ability to make nice custom bunks and supports: it lets you launch on real shallow beaches where you can't get the trailer in deeply enough. It's a superb trailer and nothing using leaf springs will ever even be remotely close when it comes to a smooth, quiet ride. If you decide to respring your trailer, lightening the springing, a custom trailer fabricator could figure out what would be needed. Thorne01-27-2011, 09:48 AMFor dories and other boats with flat bottoms, I usually just attach a 2x12 covered with carpet to the backbone of the trailer For trailers like the Trailex you can use blocks to brace the plank. Mine is very hefty, but a guy who built a Slider sister ship found a johnboat trailer that was narrow enough that the hulls sit outside the wheels, so that he can use a much shallower ramp than I can. Thorne01-17-2011, 11:20 AMI've repaired boats that were dropped in storage, so I'm a bit sensitive to that issue. As for tongue weight, I go with 10-15%, but often have to position the boat further aft on the trailer than the stock supports cover.
You've owned an old style Holsclaw trailer which you liked, and which you feel provides suitable suspension. I think it's the first time I have seen a design available for home build of a trailer trolley combination. If you can move the axle a little then you can have the bow of the boat pretty close to the towing vehicle so you don't have quite such a long load. You own an EZ Loader galvanized trailer which you like, but you want additional shock absorbtion for a light boat. Thorne01-18-2011, 08:25 AM(grin) Yeah, I once lost an entire wheel off my little utility trailer on the M5 south of Worcester.
Thorne01-27-2011, 04:19 PMI actually don't mind the distance between bow and hitch, as it allows launching on bad ramps and beaches without submerging the car's exhaust in salt water, and gives you room to hop up on the trailer tongue to get out to the winch stand. Providing additional suspension at the bunks might appeal to you in that it would not alter or compromise the road worthiness of the conventional EZ Loader or other trailer. After years of dragging around a rusted thing I built out of the small HF trailer, I finally got one of the Trailex singles. I pull the rollers and put in a padded wide full length keel support, then am real careful adusting the side bunks so that they stabilize but don't significantly support the boat. This would also allow me to remove the lights and store them in the car before launching the boat, thereby keeping them dry.
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